LE VIEUX MOUCHEUR
2 - The rod
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2 - The rod
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FLY-FISHING FOR PIKE
by Paul Le Gall,
translated by Claude BELLOIR 2 - THE ROD Three parameters have to be
considered when choosing the rod: its length, power and
action.
ln theory, everything is possible, and just about everything as well as its opposite has been
said about the question.
l've read that some fished for pike with 14ft double-handed rods and were comfortable with them. As I found it hard to believe, I tried one of mine - and don't believe it any longer. As far as I’m concerned, following an
adjustment mistake, a 7 1/5ft split-cane rod that I was shortening to
fish for trout was fortuitously transformed into a rod that cast a #10 line
wonderfully. I fished for and caught pike with it. However this was a
short-lived experience and I don't use it any longer. It is true that both single-handed short rods and
long double-handers are not suitable for this type of fishing. We'll see why
later on. AIl-purpose
rod or powerful rod ? A famous fishing writer put
pen to paper to state that powerful single-handed rods truly tested your wrist
after one or two hours and that the illusion of power should be vilified since
the pleasure of pike fly-fishing consisted in the length of the fight itself.
I’ve also read elsewhere that this method could accept a reservoir fly-rod and
a # 6/7 line. As for me, I caught 60-cm pike
a long time ago on ultra-light tackle. So I can testify that a hard-fighting and
powerful fish can be caught on a very supple rod and very thin line. Yes indeed
- provided you don't want to put it back almost dead of suffocation, the only
way to 'revive' it then being with beurre blanc!
Criteria of choiceBecause of
their dressing as we’ll see, the best-Iooking fishing lures lack hydrodynamics,
and thus also aerodynamics. They are consequently hard to cast. ln the first
part of the take, they are often tightened in the vice-like fish's mouth which
is practically paved with teeth. This requires a heavy line, a powerful rod to
cast both lure and line and to strike hard. The
usual and indeed useful distances to cast to are short, from 10 to 15 metres, as
accuracy, lure control and strike are much more important. Beyond 20 metres,
this control becomes problematic, and to me, it's more like casting than fishing.
Long casts are thus rare and undesirable. What's more, in order to be efficient,
the lure must be worked most of the time right up to the angler’s feet or to
the boat's hull. As a result, lifting the line off the water from far away is
hardly ever done.That's why the double hander seems out of the question, and why
the single-handed rod imposes itself as the other hand remains available both to
work the lure and help casting. As for me, I appreciate a tip action not only
because it suits my temper, but above all because it allows quick and accurate
short casts and makes it easier to work the lure. A lever arm, as long as
possible and yet compatible with the use of a single-handed rod, ensures both
efficient and safe casts as well as playing the fish. That's what made me stow
away the fabulous 7 1/5 ft split-cane rod mentioned above as it was too
short for this type of fishing.
After
trying different formulas, including some that proved useless and expensive, l
reached the conclusion that the adequate tackle consisted of a 9 to 10ft
single-handed rod, with a tip action, and truly capable of casting AT LEAST a #10 line. To make transport comfortable, a multi-piece rod
is a must, as soon as one is quite sure that this type of fishing isn't a
passing fancy and justifies the corresponding outlay. For some years now I’ve been using to my entire and unreserved
satisfaction 9 1/5ft four-piece SAGE
rods rated for # 9 lines, but able to cast #10 WF or BBT lines easily ( Ref:
SAGE GRAPHITE III RPL 996). Quite naturally and for my own pleasure I’ve built
a 10ft four- piece split-cane rod for a # 10 line.
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